Beirut, Lebanon – The techno beat falls away for a moment as the DJ lines up another song. Its opening chords pulse through the speakers and the room erupts. In the crush of the club, people cheer and scramble onto wooden tables and chairs, craning over one another for a better view of the woman stepping onto the dance floor. As her white silk skirt floats around her, Naima Yazbek, 55, twirls to the sound of the classical Arabic song Alf Leila wa Leila (One Thousand and One Nights), letting the music carry her through every flick of the wrist, every spin. At Madame Om, a bearded man with broad shoulders snaps a paper fan to the beat, his clapping setting off others around him.
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